Why men dress up as women to enter this Kerala temple

Every year, a unique festival unfolds at the Kottankulangara Sree Devi Temple in Chavara, Kollam district, Kerala, where men adorn themselves in women’s attire as an act of devotion. This festival, known as Chamayavilakku, is celebrated for 10-12 days in March, culminating in a night where men, regardless of their age, dress as women and carry lamps lit with five wicks to honor the goddess.
The tradition of Chamayavilakku dates back centuries and is rooted in a local legend. It is said that cowherd boys, dressed as girls, used to play around a stone they worshipped as a deity. One day, to their astonishment, the Goddess appeared before them from the stone. Word of this miraculous event spread, leading to the establishment of the temple and the inception of the tradition where men dress in female attire as an offering to the Goddess.

The festival attracts participants not only from the vicinity of the temple but also from other parts of Kerala and neighboring South Indian states. The transgender community also participates with enthusiasm, adding to the festival’s inclusivity and diversity. The event is a vibrant display of faith, where men meticulously shave, apply makeup, and don colorful saris, transforming themselves to seek blessings and fulfill vows made to the deity.
The Chamayavilakku festival is deeply embedded in the local culture. Men from the four ‘karas’ or shores traditionally linked to the festival—Chavara, Puthukad, Kulangara, and Kottakkakam—participate in the ritual. Preparations begin weeks in advance, with participants purchasing new saris, jewelry, and getting blouses tailored for the occasion. On the festival day, they are helped by their wives or female relatives to get dressed and ready for the procession to the temple.

The festival also includes a daytime event called ‘Kakkavilakku,’ where boys below the age of 10 dress like girls and hold lamps. The main event, Chamayavilakku, starts in the evening and continues until dawn. Participants carry the chamayavilakku, hoping to gain favor from the Goddess for various reasons, ranging from absolution of debts to seeking forgiveness for sins.
The temple is open for visitors during the auspicious hours of 2 AM to 5 AM, and many travel to witness this extraordinary event. Temporary shacks set up by beauticians near the temple offer services to assist men in dressing up, ensuring they look as authentic as possible.
The Chamayavilakku festival is more than just a religious event; it is a cultural phenomenon that transcends the conventional norms of gender and societal roles. It is a time when men express their devotion in a manner that defies traditional expectations, showcasing a fluidity in gender expression that is rare and profound.
The festival has garnered attention on social media, with vibrant images and videos capturing the essence of this centuries-old tradition. Locals, while accustomed to the festival, are often amused by the widespread fascination it generates. For many, it is a heartfelt offering, a custom that has been part of their lives for generations.
The Kottankulangara Sree Devi Temple’s Chamayavilakku festival’s continuity ensures that the legacy of the cowherd boys’ divine encounter is celebrated and honored, keeping the spirit of the legend alive for future generations. The Chamayavilakku festival is not just a religious ritual; it is a vibrant celebration of faith, culture, and the human spirit.